Tucked into a quiet corner of Takayama, Hidatei Hanaougi feels a world away from the town’s busy old streets, though it’s only a short drive from the centre. It’s a traditional ryokan built with fragrant Hida cedar, all polished wood, soft light and calm, uncluttered spaces. Rooms come with tatami floors and deep baths, many filled with local hot-spring water. Dinner is a highlight: carefully prepared Hida beef and seasonal mountain ingredients served in the privacy of your room. The overall mood is unhurried and quietly refined, the kind of place where evenings revolve around good food, a soak in the onsen and a proper night’s sleep on futon beds.